Current legislation defines the cosmetic product as being able to maintain and improve skin functions. It also states that cosmetic products must be effective and safe for the consumer.
The cosmetic effectiveness of a product is the ability to fulfill the functions for which it was formulated. It is the property that best represents the performance of the product and must be scientifically and objectively demonstrated. The evaluation of cosmetic efficacy therefore represents a guarantee for both the consumer and the cosmetic industry.
Anti-age products
The high consumption of anti-ageing treatments confirms the market's interest in skin ageing. The signs of ageing are especially visible on the face with a progressive loss of volume, hydration elasticity, firmness, density, definition and with an increase in wrinkles and skin discolouring. The anti-ageing cosmetic approach is multifactorial and synergetic. It works on the surface, structure and skin functions with ingredients with antioxidant, smoothing, exfoliating, myorelaxant, densifying, lightening and barrier restructuring activity.
Eye contour products
The eye contour area is particularly delicate and sensitive due to the very thin skin and the continuous movement and contraction of the skin structures. The most common blemishes in the eye contour area are dark circles, puffiness and wrinkles. Blueish-grey dark circles are often hereditary and are accentuated by stress and fatigue. Cosmetic treatments with a vaso-protective, brightening and covering action are used to reduce them. Bags under the eyes are also often hereditary and are more visible with age, fatigue and stress. Decongestant and toning products are used for cosmetic treatment. Wrinkles in the periocular area known as crow's feet are caused by repeated eyelid movements, external aggression and UV exposure. For their treatment, anti-ageing cosmetic products specifically for the eye area are used.
Sensitive skin products
Sensitive skin is characterised by skin hyperactivity to external factors such as drugs, cosmetics, detergents, textiles, climatic changes and sun exposure. The face is the most affected site as it is exposed to the external environment and cosmetic treatments. Characteristic of sensitive skin is a skin imbalance of the physiological parameters of barrier integrity, pH, colour, microcirculatory flow, hydration with an increased susceptibility to irritation, dryness, capillary fragility, transdermal penetration and barrier damage. The condition of sensitive skin mainly affects the female sex.
Dry skin products
The water content of the stratum corneum in constant equilibrium between the external environment and the underlying layers is essential for the physiological barrier function. A correct water content, essential for healthy skin, gives the skin plasticity, elasticity, turgidity, smoothness and protection against external aggression. The moisturising cosmetic treatment uses ingredients of a lipidic nature and hydrophilic substances in a synergetic manner.
In vivo instrumental evaluations
Digital images are a useful tool to support efficacy studies. Professional image acquisition and processing equipment based on Digital Video Dermoscopy is currently used; these are equipped with a high-definition video camera to capture and enlarge surface details.
Skin hydration
Deep skin hydration
Skin pH
Transepidermal water loss
Skin elasticity
Skin colourimetry
Skin flowmetry
Skin smoothness
Skin echography
Skin thermography
Skin sebometry
Skin profilometry (wrinkles)
Anti-couperose efficacy
Anti-acne efficacy
Whitening efficacy on dark spots
Anti-eye bags efficacy
Anti-dark circles efficacy
Volume of the lips
Skin gloss
Cutaneous profilometry
Sensory evaluations
Sensory analysis is a scientific discipline that identifies, measures and interprets the stimuli evoked by the use of a product and transmitted to the sense organs. It uses a group of panelists trained to perceive and quantify the sensory stimuli generated by the interaction between skin and product. In addition, the user's judgement is collected by filling out a questionnaire evaluating the perceived performance and pleasantness of the product.
Paired comparison test
Ranking test
Triangle test
Quantitative descriptive analysis - QDA
Subjective evaluation
Evaluations of harmlessness
Open and/or occlusive patch test on sensitive and/or normal skin
Human Repeated Insult Patch Test - HRIPT
Photopatch Test
Predictive test for hypoallergenicity
Evaluation of comedogenic power
Clinical evaluations
Complementing the instrumental assessments are the clinical evaluations performed by the medical specialist (e.g. dermatologist, ophthalmologist, dentist) who objectively assesses the improvement in skin parameters using scores and scales.
